Though it has only been around since the 1960s, the princess cut is the second most popular cut next to the round brilliant, which has been around at least since World War I. The princess cut is either square or rectangular and is cut in a way that resembles an upside down pyramid. The way it is faceted allows for a radiance, fire and sparkle that is as great as that of the round brilliant.
A princess cut diamond tends to be less expensive than a round cut diamond that weighs the same because the corners don’t need to be cut off and rounded. This also makes the princess cut more popular with lapidists. Interestingly, both the round brilliant and the princess cut have 58 facets. The princess cut used to be called the Barion cut and is sometimes called the square brilliant.
There are at least three gem labs that grade princess cut gems, but even they do not agree on what makes a perfect princess cut.
Settings A princess cut gem has sharp corners which are at risk of chipping. This is true even if the gemstone is a diamond. Because of that, the most popular setting for a princess cut jewel is the prong setting. In this setting, the prongs cover and protect the gem’s corners while still allowing the rest of the jewel to sparkle. Princess cut gems are often solitaires, which frees them from competing with other gems in the ring.
However, other engagement rings with a central princess cut gem surround it with a halo encrusted with smaller diamonds. The rings can have split shanks that intertwine and are embellished with accent gems. These can be found on the shoulders of the shank or completely around the band. Rings can also be had with side stones. They do not have to be the same type of gem as the central princess cut stone. For example, a ring can have a princess cut white diamond with sapphire, ruby or emerald side stones. These lesser stones can be faceted or cabochons.
Metals A princess cut diamond looks good with any type of precious metal. The most popular metals for bands are: Gold: Gold for jewelry is alloyed with other metals to make it stronger. The most popular types of old for engagement bands are yellow gold, white gold or rose gold. Platinum: This is a bright, tough, silver metal that doesn’t need to be alloyed with another metal, but is often plated with protective rhodium. Palladium: Palladium is a cousin of platinum. Like platinum, it is brilliant silver-white. Sterling silver: This is 92.5 percent silver. Over time, it develops a lovely patina.
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